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Celebrated big-wave pioneer, previously thought of as immortal, dies at North Shore home ...

Retrieved on: 2022-02-08 01:30:02

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Celebrated big-wave pioneer, previously thought of as immortal, dies at North Shore home .... View article details on hiswai:

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For a surfer to ride into old age, it's important that surfing be nothing more than a recreational activity. It should never be a person's entire life ...

Article found on: beachgrit.com

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